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Paris Fashion Week says ‘Loosen up man’!

Hermes and their masculine, relaxed style

Time and time again while covering the men’s components of Milan and Paris fashion weeks we touched on it: that dominant, relaxed aesthetic that men who are tired of the crotch hugging, thigh squishing feel of the overt skinny cut have to look forwards to amongst autumn / fall 2011 fashions. And beyond. Men’s fashion simply doesn’t move so fast that one can peg these forthcoming emergence of relaxed tailoring to a sole season, nor even a year, and while we already know we’ll see it amongst spring 2012’s fashions it’s highly likely that we’ll also see this interpretation of men’s fashion feature amongst throughout all of 2012.

Dolce and Gabbana loose fitting pant

A relaxed fit for men is, of course, nothing new and we’ve spoken on it before and given a physiological understanding of why it’s still a chosen look as well as a fashionable look. Loose layering, drop crotches and baggy jeans have been with us for some time now. But a line has to be drawn in the sand. The relaxed cuts of past years are distinctly different from the relaxed tailoring we’re about the encounter. One could rightly argue that this new men’s trend evolves from the old, but they are certainly not one in the same.

Deep shoulder seam

While the seamless shoulder is one of the hallmarks of the relaxed men’s tailoring trend, the deep shoulder seam / dropped shoulder works equally as well. Sitting somewhere between the sack shoulder and a seamless shoulder, the deep shoulder seam features a stitch line that sits off of the shoulder, with the overall appearance given that the jacket or coat’s shoulder is oversized. Sometimes the effect is subtle, as is the case with the double breasted Ermanno Scervino overcoat, at other times the seam sits much closer to the bicep, as is the case with the half sleeved sweater / jumper from Raf Simons.

Ermanno Scervino's deep shoulder seamed slouch jacket - Comfy!

Raf Simons dropped shoulder sweater

Loose Pants

If relaxed and oversized shoulders are the hallmark of the emerging relaxed tailoring trend, then loose cut trousers / pants follow a close second. At the outset they may feel like an easy way to interpret the trend, but don’t be deceived: they’re the element that is easiest to get wrong.

For this part of the look what you’re looking for are those relaxed, oversized and generally loose interpretations of men’s trousers which are tailored. After all, this trend may lack formality but it certainly isn’t so casual that it is streetwear. Tailoring is key to the whole look.

In short, the elements you’re looking for in loose cut pants throughout 2011 and 2012 are:

  1. loosely tailored through the thighs

  2. loosely tailored through the crotch

  3. tailored

With those elements in mind, here are some on-trend interpretations of relaxed cut trousers from the autumn / winter 2011 men’s catwalks:

Dolce and Gabbana

Ermanno Scervino aviator pants

Burberry’s relaxed attitude

The sack suit may have been an interpretation of the fashionable men’s suit most heavily pushed by Ralph Lauren, but they’re not the only to experiment with the style. After all, loose fitting men’s clothing is a trend for the coming season. So it was that Burberry Prorsum’s chief creative director Christopher Bailey gave his own take on the cut in the fashion house’s autumn / winter 2011 collection.

Burberry's pant suit


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